2004 no heat simplest blows cold air. Jump to Latest Follow Status Not open for further replies. 1 - 18 of 18 Posts. H. haf2race · Registered. Joined Oct 26, 2007 · 42 Posts . Discussion Starter • #1 • Dec 18 2004 2wd Dodge Ram QC w/a 5.7 with Royal Purple 5w-20 in the motor, RP Max ATF in the trans, 80-90w in the 4.56 Auburn LSD rollingSo, i am on the point of go away and I understand that the rear ac is not coming on. So, now I am paying them $fifty four just to take the rear a/c panel off to test to see if energy is attending to the blower. If power is not being supplied to the blower the only thing more i will be able to think of is it is not being told to come on from the pcm.'10 Dodge Ram heater not scorching. 10 Answers. I have a 2010 Dodge Ram 1500. Air conditioning works great however heater is not blowing sizzling. It is identical temp no matter the place I flip the dial. I changed the blend door actuator and it did not repair a...Dodge Ram Air Conditioning Not Blowing Cold Causes Lack of Refrigerant - Your Ram's air conditioner will not work if the refrigerant has disappeared because of a leak. In truth, most won't even cycle on with out the correct amount of refrigerant drive.AC HEATER BLOWS HOT ON DRIVER SIDE COLD ON PASSENGER SIDEIf the ac or heater is blowing hot at the driver facet and cold on passenger facet or blows cold on th...
Thank you guys such a lot. My 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 was blowing cold at the drivers facet and lukewarm on the passenger side. I used your flushing either side to the heater core aa d it worked like a appeal. On the 2005 model the lines are already spliced in the center, so setting up the flush package as really easy.Air Conditioning problem 2003 Dodge Ram Four Wheel Drive Automatic 104, 00 miles A/C blows ice cold whilst riding, stops blowing cold air anytime the vehicle is at idle at a forestall mild, as soon as I get started accelerating, it is blowing cold again.My ac is not blowing air . 1 Answer. My ac is not blowing air however I can feel cold at the vent. on a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 I tried a new resistor fusses charging the gadget all maximum the whole lot I could call to mind exscept the wiring harness...Come sign up for me on this case study on this 2013 Dodge Ram that has a none functioning blower motor. Previous maintenance were blower motor, relay and tipm. Let's se...
Most most likely your AC dryer / accumulator is dangerous and needs to be changed. Parts run beneath $45.00 (together with tax and transport). Labor rates vary and you will need to evacuate and recharge your ac system to remove any moisture. Call a neighborhood car AC carrier company and lower your expenses compared to the dealership.The 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 has 10 problems reported for air will not blow out vents. Average repair cost is $590 at 90,000 miles.DODGE RAM V10 OWNERS > Heater not blowing heat air. Share. Share with: Link: Copy link. Five posts Heater not blowing heat air. Heater not blowing heat air. MountainDodge. 34.I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Van. My downside is the AC is not blowing cold air, it is mildly cool, however not cold. The Freon is crammed to the right kind pressue level, the ac compressor appears to be workin … read extraAC blows cold then heat Dodge Ram. Dodge Ram 1500 intermittent AC, Compressor quits, blows cold, then warm, warm AC. There are mainly 3 sections to the AC machine; the sensors (low and high drive sensors and the AC on/off switch), the command unit (the powertrain keep watch over module- PCM), and the "doing" elements (the compressor2018 F150 Colors The Tale Of Dead Man's Float How To Draw Male Anime Eyes Single Line Font How Many Tons Can A Dump Truck Haul 1960s Shift Dresses How To Make A Good Sugar Baby Profile Flames Transparent Png Check The Mail Sims Freeplay Can Diamonds Shatter Different Types Of Pringles
Dodge Ram 1500 intermittent AC, Compressor quits, blows cold, then warm, warm AC
There are principally 3 sections to the AC gadget; the sensors (high and low power sensors and the AC on/off switch), the command unit (the powertrain keep watch over module- PCM), and the “doing” elements (the compressor snatch relay, compressor snatch, and the compressor).
The sensors inform the PCM if device pressures are too top or low. And the low pressure sensor provides the ideas on when to cycle the compressor off and on. Based on that knowledge, the PCM toggles a ground connection to the regulate coil on the compressor take hold of relay—the unit that if truth be told powers the compressor grasp. Finally, there’s the compressor take hold of and compressor.
Since you get cold air occasionally, we can assume the compressor seize works a minimum of some of the time. When the grasp stops biking, the first thing I’d want to know is if it’s getting energy from the compressor grasp relay. You can take a look at that via taking away the electrical connector from the seize, beginning the engine, turning the A/C to MAX, and testing for battery voltage on the dark blue/black wire. If you see voltage there, check the opposite twine for excellent floor. The flooring for the compressor seize runs on a black/white wire from the snatch connector to a splice at the best of the transmission. From the splice, the ground continues and terminates on the entrance of the engine. If you’re getting power and floor on the grasp connector but the grab isn’t attractive, you probably have a foul grab. My guess is that it’s heating up and developing an open within the grab coil winding or the connector. If you’re NOT getting energy at the seize connector, then I’d check the compressor relay to peer if it’s in truth getting a ground connection from the PCM.
Power flows to the compressor grasp relay contacts from fuse J (10A) in the power distribution middle (PDC). Power flows to the relay keep an eye on coil from fuse 11 (10A) in the junction block within the left kick panel. Remove the compressor clutch relay, get started the engine, and turn the A/C to MAX. Check for battery voltage on terminals 86 and 30 in the relay socket.
If you’re getting voltage, test for PCM ground on terminal eighty five in the same socket. Good ground on terminal eighty five means that the low and high force switches, the A/C keep watch over transfer and the PCM are all operating correctly, the PCM is looking for compressor operation and providing the correct flooring for the relay control coil. If you’re seeing voltage and ground, check out swapping the relay with every other one with the same part number. Then take a look at for energy at the compressor grasp connector once more. If you continue to aren’t seeing power at the grab, you may have a corrosion issue throughout the PDC, or an open in the dead of night blue/black wire going to the seize.
Now, for those who’re NOT getting floor on terminal 85 within the relay socket, then the PCM isn’t seeing the proper enter from the sensor switches. Here’s how those sensors paintings. The PCM supplies energy to the A/C switch in the heater keep an eye on head on the gentle inexperienced/white twine. When you turn the A/C switch to ON or MAX, the transfer completes the trail to floor on the black/orange twine terminating in the middle of the dash. The PCM sees the voltage drop and that’s its signal that you need A/C.
Next, it tests the low and high drive switches. It sends power out to the low drive switch (situated on the top of the A/C accumulator) on a brown cord. If the refrigerant pressure is above the low limit, power flows thru that transfer and out to the top power transfer (mounted on the back of the A/C compressor) on a dark blue twine. If the refrigerant pressure is underneath the high drive limit, the ability flows out of the high force switch on a gentle green/white wire and terminates on the A/C switch within the regulate head. So the path is going from the PCM, thru both the high and low pressure switches, in the course of the A/C switch and to ground. The PCM is basically on the lookout for continuity through the sensor switches after which to ground. If the whole thing is working properly, the PCM will see virtually 0 voltage on that circuit. That’s its clue to provide ground to the A/C compressor snatch relay.
The device should have no less than 43-psi at the accumulator to close the contacts within the low force transfer. With the contacts closed in each the low and high power switches, the PCM provides ground to the A/C compressor take hold of relay. The top force transfer contacts open at 450-490-psi and close once more at 270-330-psi.
So the possibly suspects are: intermittent compressor grasp coil, unhealthy compressor snatch relay, corrosion within the PDC, open in the cord to the compressor take hold of, intermittent ground at the sensor side.
©, 2012 Rick Muscoplat
SavePosted on November 2, 2012 through Rick MuscoplatClasses