

Taken by Leah Morse in July 2002, these
pictures show the cape and rocks on the Italian island of Lipari, in the
Straits of Messina, that are traditionally considered the Scylla and Charybdis of The Odyssey, book 12. There, Circe
warns Odysseus to steer clear of the deadly Wandering Rocks and then goes on to
say:
"A second course
lies
between headlands. One is a sharp mountain
piercing
the sky, with stormcloud round the peak
dissolving
never, not in the brightest summer,
to
show heaven's azure there, nor in the fall.
No
mortal man could scale it, nor so much
as
land there, not with twenty hands and feet,
so
sheer the cliffs are--as of polished stone.
Midway
that height, a cavern full of mist
opens
toward Erebos and evening. Skirting
this
in the lugger, great Odysseus,
your
master bowman, shooting from the deck,
would
come short of the cavemouth with his shaft;
but
that is the den of Skylla, where she yaps
abominably,
a newborn whelp's cry,
though
she is huge and monstrous. God or man,
no
one could look on her in joy. Her legs--
and
there are twelve--are like great tentacles,
unjointed,
and upon her serpent necks
are
borne six heads like nightmares of ferocity,
with
triple serried rows of fangs and deep
gullets
of black death. Half her length, she sways
her
heads in air, outside her horrid cleft,
hunting
the sea around that promontory
for
dolphins, dogfish, or what bigger game
thundering
Amphitritę feeds in thousands.
And
no ship's company can claim
to
have passed her without loss and grief; she takes,
from
every ship, one man for every gullet.
"The
opposite point seems more a tongue of land
you'd
touch with a good bowshot, at the narrows.
A
great wild fig, a shaggy mass of leaves,
grows
on it, and Kharybdis lurks below
to
swallow down the dark sea tide. Three times
from
dawn to dusk she spews it up
and
sucks it down again three times, a whirling
maelstrom;
if you come upon her then
the
god who makes earth tremble could not save you.
No,
hug the cliff of Skylla, take your ship
through
on a racing stroke. Better to mourn
six
men than lose them all, and the ship, too."
(Lines
90-130, trans. Robert Fitzgerald)
Updating
the story from the Bronze Age to the beginning of the Roman era, the Roman poet
Ovid tells the story of Circe's transformation of Scylla from a beautiful woman
to a monster and adds:
"Scylla,
fixed in that place, detests all men and destroys
whomever
she can--her victims include Ulysses' companions.
She
would have destroyed Aeneas' party as well, had she not,
before
they hove into view, been changed again to a rock,
which
stands offshore to this day--and sailors give it wide berth."
(Metamorphoses,
book 14, lines 70-74, trans. David R. Slavitt)