2011 Honda Pilot Belt Diagram

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Honda 2011 Pilot Manuals | ManualsLib

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Honda 2011 Pilot Manuals | ManualsLib

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2011 Honda Pilot Manual 2011 Pilot Technology Reference Guide Honda Remote Engine Starter Quick Start Guide The Owner's Manual explains the more than a few options and functions of your Honda, provides operation pointers and suggestions for automobile care and maintenance, provides specific details on...Model Information. 2011 Honda Pilot Change Vehicle. Recommended Service for Your 2011 Honda Pilot Recommendations for regular servicing tasks for your automobile can be found in Service & Maintenance.2011 Pilot EX-L Unplanned upkeep: Rear shocks (53k), Transmission force switch 2nd seize (91k), VCMTuner disable (98k), Map light switches and TPMS sensors (110k) Planned upkeep: 18 oil and clear out changes, 6 transmission fluid changes, 6 air filters, 5 cabin filters, 2 batteries, 2 front...I've a 2006 Honda Pilot with 83,000 miles on it. In the handbook it says to switch out the timing belt (underneath standard uses) when the upkeep gentle 4 comes on (which I consider is at around 105,000 miles). Is this the only really useful carrier period because that is all of the handbook says.Acura Honda Pilot Accord Ridgeline Accessory Drive Belt Kit These footage of this web page are about:Honda Pilot Drive Belt. For Honda Pilot 3.5L V6 Engine 2006-2011 Drive Belt Tensioner 85mm 305390.

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My DIY Timing Belt replacement, 2011 Honda Pilot | Honda Pilot

I figure I can submit up my revel in, and a couple of tips that may help. I determined to take on the timing belt this weekend. 106k miles, proper at Eight years outdated. We have owned it since 52k miles.

I've by no means completed a timing belt earlier than.... however I have grew to become an even amount of wrenches on private automobiles. My largest concern was once now not the work or the time concerned - it was if you messed this up - the results might be catastrophic. I read a number of threads here, and then watched about 6 youtube vids to prep.

Aisin TKH002 from Rock Auto for about 0 shipped.Bando 6PK2135 Belt from Amazon (B000CMCNJC) for BETOOLL 50mm Crankshaft Crank Pulley Wrench Holder Tool from Amazon (B01F333OHY) for EPAuto Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit from Amazon (B01I40ZQWE) for Paint pen marker squeeze motion from Amazon (B004BF5P6O) for

I learn too many horror tales of damaged bolts in blocks, so I ordered the primary bolts I read that broke. I imagine these kind of were brought about by means of no longer the use of a torque wrench, however who knows. It was once reasonable insurance.

14513-RCA-A01 Bolt Timing Belt Adjuster .4214551-RCA-A01 Bolt Timing Belt Idler .50 (this got here with pink loctite already on it)95801-06030-07 Bolt Flange (6X30) for tension-er 1.35 (need two)

Mostly just hand equipment, my 25 12 months outdated Craftsman socket set still turns out to do the activity in spite of everything these years. I did make use of several additional socket extensions from a harbor freight kit.

It took me about 8 hours of tangible paintings time. I used to be surprised.... I figured I might do it so much sooner. But some things had been slow, and placing the whole lot back in combination just took so much longer than I anticipated.

I did not have any important problems. Pulling the power belt used to be a ache from under. Much easier from above I discovered later. I want I would have just ordered the harbor frieght (or amazon) software for the serpentine belts.... to make this easier to take away and reinstall.

FIRST - I noticed too damned many videos of other people running method too exhausting to bust free the crankshaft bolt. Wasting hours of time and effort. I was in the beginning making plans on getting the special heavyweight socket, and buying a Milwaukee 1400 ftlb have an effect on, which is a 0 expense, but a guaranteed elimination. I saw sufficient "bumping the starter" movies to decide that is what I might do. I took a 1/2" breaker bar and a 19mm impact socket, and rotated the crank so that the breaker bar was right up against the control arm (NOT the driveshaft!). I used a small bungee cord to hold the breaker bar in place so it would not fall off. Then went and bumped the starter (with coil packs unplugged) and did this FIRST thing..... as I wanted to ensure I could get this loose before wasting time on anything else. I popped loose on the second hit of the starter.... but you have to switch off that key, as the computer will continue to crank if you just let go. It was super easy... about 5 minutes of setup time. If you have an amazing impact, then the special impact socket is the way to go.... but since I didn't, I figured I should give this a shot first. YouTube

The hydraulic timing belt tensioner used to be in reality leaking... LOTS of oil appearing up.

The loafer and tensioner pulley bearings both felt adequate, but both confirmed evidence of oil/grease seepage coming from the again of the bearings.

The biggest surprise was the timing belt idler pulley bolt. When I got rid of it - a small amount of engine oil seeped out, and there was evidence of motor oil at the threads, at the end, forward of the threadlocker evidence. I never saw anyone point out this - that this bolt hole goes into the engine oil channels.

My power belt tensioner was once showing evidence of leaking (black gunk everywhere) however the bearings felt tremendous, so I elected to simply reuse it.

I used to be suffering to search out the proper belt routing symbol when it used to be time to position that back on - so striking this one in the market....

On the tightening of the crank bolt - hitting the Forty seven feet lbs used to be tremendous simple. Then, I marked a corner level of the crank bolt, after which simply make a mark on the crankshaft pully "hexagon" that might be 60 degrees (one "flat" principally) since there are 6 apartments/points, each one represents 60 degrees. My crank tool are compatible good enough, and with a smaller 1/2 breaker bar it used to be simple to wedge into place, then put my harbor freight breaker at the 19mm socket, and had to make use of my foot to push it to get sufficient leverage. I were given it to about 50 degrees and stated "close enough" as a result of that is REALLY tight. The torque spec without doing 47lbs plus 60 degrees is identical to 180 ft lbs..... which is a lot. You follow motor oil to the crank bolt threads, and the back of the bolt head (in between bolt head and washer).

These are my notes I made for myself from watching the movies, and principally what I adopted.

Jack Pilot and position on jack stand. Remove passenger aspect tire off to achieve get admission to to crankshaft (22MM socket on lugs) Remove clips (x3) and 10mm bolts (x4) on fender smartly skirt to gain access. Fold back and safe with bungee twine. Remove engine most sensible quilt Un-clip spark plug coils to disable engine get started. Bust free crank pulley bolt the use of starter method (19MM socket and breaker bar) Remove force belt Remove pressure belt tension-er (12mm bottom and 17mm best) Remove get admission to panel to drain coolant, drain Relocate coolant overflow tank off to facet Disconnect power steerage pump reservoir hose at pump, use paper towels underneath to catch any spillsRemove energy guidance pump (12mm deep socket x2 with a 1" extension) Un-clip power steering reservoir and relocate Remove 3 bolts from computer module and swing module out of the way to clear motor mount Remove upper timing covers - moving the wire harness out of the way first (x5 10mm bolts for each cover) Remove crank pulley bolt and pulley. Remove lower timing cover (10mm deep socket x7) Remove timing belt washer shield Reinstall crank pulley bolt to turn engine Support engine with a jack with block of wood on oil pan Remove right engine mount bracket (mount to mount) - First with the thru-bolt, then 2x14mm to engine mountRemove right engine mount to frame (swing computer module out of the way) (3x17mm)Remove right engine mount to engine (1x10mm, 3x14mm to engine)

Remove coils and plugs to make engine easier to turn (optional) Align timing belt per instructions according to timing marks with paint pen.

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Triple check alignmentGrind down a threaded battery holder rod per the Honda service manual, remove tension on the timing beltRemove timing belt Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2x10mm bolts). Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleeve) (14mm bolt). Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it) Remove water pump bolts (10mm) and pump, allow to drain. Mind the alignment pegs Clean water pump flange surface on engine with rag, if needed fine paper Replace pump (mind the dowel pins), 5 bolts (10mm), 8.9lbs (108 inch lbs) Rinse with hot water, and blow off anything that got anti-freeze on it. Final clean area with a rag and brake parts cleaner. Blow off again. Install NEW idler pulley/bolt with loctite, 33 lbsInstall belt tensioner pulley bolt, 18lb, 14mmInstall hydraulic tensioner, 10mm, 8.9lbs (108 inch lbs) Check alignment, install timing belt -Install belt on crank first, keep tight to front with no slack, around front cam, down under pump, up around rear cam, with slack to the rear. Check alignment again.When you are sure its good, pull grenade pin on tension-er.Rotate engine clockwise slowly and feel for any resistance (valves).

Install motor mount to engine with 3 bolts (14mm) 33lbs, and then the 10mm bolt on top (9 lbs). Use thread-locker on the bottom bolt as it was from the factory. Install motor mount to frame (3x 17mm) and connect to engine mount (2x 14mm) Install timing belt keeper washer on crank Install lower and upper timing covers Install power steering pump - 12mm PS bolts, 16lbsInstall crank pulley and crank bolt, 47 lbs plus 60 degrees, or 181 ft lbs, with engine oil on bolt flat and threads Install drive belt tension-er assembly - 17mm, 54lbs. 12mm, 16lbs Install drive beltInstall radiator drain petcockReinstall/reconnect radiator overflow tank and power steering reservoirUsing special radiator funnel, Refill radiator with blue Honda rated 50/50 fluid.

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